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Duke?s is stark. On purpose. Everything about this place is designed to help you concentrate on the hickory-smoked barbecued pork. It is served in big chunks at a cafeteria line that also includes rice, hash (a stewlike mixture made from pig innards), a choice of red sauce that is four-alarm hot or yellow mustard sauce that is sweet and tangy (unique to central South Carolina), and pickles. The drink of choice is pre-sweetened ice tea; and each table is outfitted with a few loaves of Sunbeam bread, which is just the right thing for mopping a plate of all its good sauce. Please note the limited hours. Duke?s is open for lunch and supper only on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. In the tradition of the old-time pig-pickin?, South Carolinians consider a meal like this a weekend celebration.

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